Go east: what it's like to sail on a new Hooghly River cruise in India

A Hare Krishna temple being built on the Hooghly

 

These are the kinds of encounters that have shaped my nine-day journey with Asia small-ship specialist Pandaw. It’s a new itinerary taking in the Hooghly and Ganges rivers, beginning with two culture-packed days in Kolkata, the one-time capital of British India.

 

Travelling in a small group, and with knowledgeable guide Deepak who stays with us for the duration, means I’m not just seeing West Bengal, I’m totally immersed in local life.

 

Once we sail upstream into rural areas, the few Western travellers we’d seen in Kolkata all but disappear and we attract a warm, curious welcome wherever we land.

 

Teenagers stop us in temples for selfies; market stallholders ask where we’re from; and we’re invited to join cricket matches that unfold on public lawns shared with sacred grazing cows. 

 

Each day we moor next to ghats – the stone stairways leading down to the water that are the social hub of towns and villages – and step straight into the heart of the community.

 

Stops on a Hooghly river cruise

Katha Pandaw on the Hooghly

 

One of our stops is Chandannagar, once a French trading post with a leafy promenade, where Deepak pauses to talk to a guard outside the local court building. It’s totally unscheduled, but we’re invited in to see clerks tapping away on vintage typewriters as black-gowned barristers skirt past on their way to the courtroom.

 

These small, unexpected windows into daily life make the trip so special.

 

Our 350-mile journey takes in the Hooghly, a distributary (a channel that branches off a river) of the Ganges, as well as India’s best-known waterway itself, worshipped by Hindus as the goddess Ganga.

 

Each day brings a wide array of experiences. The village of Matiari introduces us to the craft of brass smelting, little changed in over 100 years. Inside workshops, furnaces roar while artisans hammer the shining alloy into household and decorative objects.

 

In Murshidabad, we marvel at Hazarduari Palace where false doors were built to confuse potential intruders and strategically placed mirrors in grand rooms were used to keep watch on untrustworthy visitors.

 

Temple visits range from the remarkable 108-shrine Shiva complex in Kalna to the colossal Hare Krishna temple rising above Mayapur’s skyline.

 

The latter is still under construction but, once again, travelling with Pandaw opens doors and we’re granted behindthe- scenes access to the immense site, whose main wing is due to be completed by the end of this year.

 

Between excursions, the shaded top deck of Katha Pandaw becomes my front-row seat to the river life that unfurls in timeless scenes.

 

Fishermen cast nets, women rhythmically beat laundry on the ghats and families bathe and worship.

 

As the crew gather to wave us off at journey’s end, we’re told not to say goodbye but rather ‘aaschi’, a Bengali farewell that means ‘I’ll be back’. 

 

After seeing India through the unhurried and unscripted lens of this lesser-travelled river, I hope that proves to be true.

 

 

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Book it

 

Fred Holidays offers Pandaw’s 11-night The Hooghly Ganges cruise from £3,399, departing September 30 and including two nights in Kolkata plus the nine-night cruise, with flights, transfers, all onboard meals and drinks, excursions and Wi-Fi.
fredholidays.co.uk

 

 

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Katha Pandaw ship review

A twin cabin on Katha Pandaw

 

Katha Pandaw and its 36-passenger sister ship Kalaw Pandaw, which sails the same itinerary, were inspired by the 19th-century Burmese Irrawaddy Flotilla Company fleet. With wood-panelled cabins, shining decks and burnished brass fittings, the two vessels are as cosy as they are atmospheric.

 

A huge part of the experience is down to friendly, attentive crew members who are on hand for everything from leading shore excursions to mixing cocktails back on board.

 

Meals are outstanding, showcasing authentic Indian cuisine that is imaginative and flavoursome – and spice levels can be turned up or down on request.

 

Ask the expert

 

 

 

Andy Hawke, river cruise product and sales manager, Fred Holidays

 

“I’m really excited about Pandaw’s new Hooghly River journey because it shows travellers a side of India many tours miss: everyday rural life along quiet riverbanks, dotted with small villages, temples and grand old palaces. Sailing on the Katha Pandaw and Kalaw Pandaw keeps everything relaxed and close to the landscape.

 

The two nights in Kolkata are a real bonus – you get proper time to explore the city’s museums and architecture without paying for a pricey hotel or constantly packing and unpacking. With flights, transfers, excursions, all meals and a drinks package included, it’s fantastic value for such a high-quality, unique adventure.”

 

 

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Selling tips

 

• A stress-free and relaxing way to visit India, particularly for first-timers who don’t want to change hotels each night.

 

• Small ships dock close to hardto-reach communities, offering rich opportunities for interaction in areas that get little tourist income.

 

• An alternative to well-trodden trails such as the Golden Triangle for travellers who are keen to understand more about rural life.

 

• Totally authentic and one-off experiences with a guide who can help put the area’s history and cultural practices into context.

 

Lead image credit: Pandaw