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Spotting seals, bears and birds on a nature-focused tour of Estonia

253799 grey sealCredRemo Savisaar

Estonia is better known for its nightlife than its wildlife, but Joanna Booth discovers there’s more to the country on a nature-focused fam trip with UK tour operators

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As if on cue for a teatime picnic, it’s 6pm when the first bear wanders out of the forest. I’m immediately thrilled – these burly beasts have long been on my wish list and I never expected finding one to be this easy.

Bear Hide 26

Eurasian brown bear spotted from the hide. Image credit: Herve Rannu/Herve Rannu Photography

 

She’s watchful, almost nervy, pausing frequently to scan the clearing for signs of danger, and jogs surprisingly fast on her pigeon-toed paws. It’s understandable as, according to Bert Rähni, our guide from Estonian wildlife specialist NaTourEst, she’s pregnant. Happily, hidden away in a purpose-built hide, we get fantastic views without causing this mama-bear-to-be any stress.

 

Bear-watching in Alutaguse National Park

Bear Hide 39

Fam trip group walking through the woods. Image credit: Herve Rannu/Herve Rannu Photography

 

During the next few hours in this wildlife reserve adjacent to Estonia’s Alutaguse National Park, we spot another two bears, both juveniles and probably siblings, which come thrillingly close to the hide windows. We also see a handsome fox, a bickering flock of jays and a large family of raccoon dogs. These creatures – which look like lively, over-caffeinated badgers – create a real soap opera, trotting around and getting into some highly vocal scraps.

 

As this region is home to more than 500 Eurasian brown bears – half Estonia’s total bear population – sightings are almost guaranteed. The team drops small amounts of fish or wheat close to the hide, but Bert is keen to emphasise that these tiny quantities aren’t large enough for them to rely on and don’t affect their behavioural patterns when searching for food in the long term.

 

The hide makes the process of going on a bear hunt rather civilised.

Bear Hide 16

Inside the hide. Image credit: Herve Rannu/Herve Rannu Photography

 

Checking in at 4pm, we find comfy chairs lined up in front of the viewing windows, plus an indoor speaker hooked up to a powerful exterior microphone, so we can not only see the sights but also hear the sounds of the forest. Being able to make a cup of tea and pop to the loo while we await the bears is a real bonus.

 

These creature comforts are necessary, however – we’ll be here all night. To maintain guests’ safety, and not disturb the wildlife, no one leaves the hides before 8am the next morning. There are four categories to choose from; ours is a comfort hide, with four small rooms behind the main viewing window, each with a set of bunks and a sliding door. 

 

There’s a shared toilet and sink with running water, plus a kettle. Prices start at €135 per person.

 

On my next visit, I’d book the luxury hide, from €590 per night, which has a comfortable double bed in front of mirrored floor-to-ceiling windows, plus a full bathroom with a shower and even a coffee machine.

 

Nature beyond the capital

 

shutterstock 1427346713

Kuunari Harbour, Tallinn. Image credit: Shutterstock/Studio MDF

 

Many clients won’t know much about Estonia beyond picturesque Tallinn, and may not have considered it as anything other than a city-break destination. But this flat, green country is so manageably sized that, while there’s enough to do to create longer nature-focused itineraries, you can easily combine wildlife viewing with a traditional short break.

 

253836 bird watchingCredRemo Savisaar1

Matsalu National Park, Estonia. Image credit: Remo Savisaar/moment.ee

 

Alutaguse is a 90-minute drive from Tallinn, making the bear hide a simple overnight add-on. And there’s plenty of other wildlife within a day trip from the capital.

 

Grey seals play in Tallinn Bay and boat trips to see them are easy to organise. We head out with Wild Nature Estonia on a purpose-built craft that sits low in the water and has a secondary electric engine, allowing us to make a quiet approach. In the waters around Aegna Island, we find hordes of seals, some balanced in banana-like curves on the rocks, others splashing through the sea and curious enough to approach the boat.

 

252696 birdwatching CredHans Markus Antson

Birdwatching. Image credit: Hans Markus Antson

 

There’s birdlife close by too. We reach the Paljassaare Peninsula by car in 15 minutes from the Old Town, and guide Signe Ohakas of Wanderlust.ee takes us for a stroll through this former military zone turned conservation area where reed beds, meadows and coastal woodland provide some of Estonia’s best birding, particularly in the spring and autumn migration seasons.

 

A white-tailed eagle flaps along the tree line, yellow wagtails dart over our heads and, in the shallows, a mother goosander escorts her energetic chicks. It’s hard to believe this tranquil spot is so close to the city. But that’s the beauty of Estonia. Nature is never very far away.

 

Bog Hike 22

The fam trip group of tour operators and writer Joanna (third from left). Image credit: Herve Rannu/Herve Rannu Photography

 

 


 

 

Book it

 

Baltic Travel Company can tailor-make a five-day trip that includes three nights in Tallinn and an overnight bear-watching experience in a hide. The package also features two days of nature-focused activities including hiking, wild swimming, bog walking and birdwatching. Prices start at £1,995, including flights from Gatwick to Tallinn, departing June 9; other dates available. 
baltictravelcompany.com

 

Visit Estonia has a range of trade resources and marketing materials for agents.

Find out more at visitestonia.com/en/traveltrade

 

 


 

 

Ask an operator

jim

 

Jim Molloy, sales manager, Regent Holidays

 

“Estonia is the perfect location for soft adventure – hiking, bog-walking and wildlife – before relaxing in comfortable accommodation and enjoying excellent, natural food. We visited towards the end of the summer, when wild berries and mushrooms were abundant, providing the basis for delicious, foraged meals.”

 

laurie

 

Laurie Thomas, Europe product manager, Explore


“Estonia has an amazing mix of habitats – bogs, meadows, wetlands, coastline – all packed with wildlife. You could spot beavers and brown bears or watch thousands of migratory birds from a national park. You can pair the incredible wildlife with culture in Tallinn and even combine it with neighbouring Baltic countries Lithuania and Latvia, all within a single week.”

 

alfie

 

Alfie Claydon, sales and marketing support, Exsus Travel

 

“One of the most noticeable features of Estonia was the tranquillity. I was able to truly appreciate the beauty of my surroundings with nothing more than the chirping of the birds overhead and the crunch of my own footsteps. I was mesmerised by some of the locations we visited,
like the perfectly still Tudu Lake and Jägala Waterfall.”

 

Bog Hike 9

Tudu Forest. Image credit: Herve Rannu/Herve Rannu Photography

 

Lead image credit: Remo Savisaar

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