The last Thursday of the month in Portland is, well, Last Thursday. For 15 blocks along Alberta Street in the east of the city musicians appear on every corner and car park and even on the occasional porch.
There is bluegrass and country, punk and rock, driving drum and bass, a budding Jimmy Hendrix and percussion of all kinds. Refugee stalls from Glastonbury and Camden clutter the sidewalk and behind, cafes and restaurants offer menus from cheap to chic.
The Rough Guide suggests tourists take care this side of town so I dare not think what the Michelin Guide might say. But the crowd is more Brighton than the Bronx and the atmosphere tremendous. What a shame if UK visitors are deterred by guidebooks for the tremulous.
What is disturbing about Portland is the level of homelessness. The numbers on the street in the downtown district defy belief. Most are young.
There is clearly money to spend in the city. Half the central district is currently dug up to extend the streetcar system, there is a fair number of prestige high-rise places and the older buildings look well maintained. So there is no excuse. Where are the facilities for the homeless?