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Of lighthouses and submarines

After the fun, if soggy, bike ride in Belgium, yesterday's excursion in Cherbourg was disappointing, to say the least.

I thought originally it was my bad choice, except that other journalists with me on this Eurodam mini-cruise, who went on different trips, said the same thing. I'm not sure when - or if - Holland America Line will be back this way again, but I reckon it's something that needs to be addressed first.

Mine was an excursion around the Val de Saire region to the east of Cherbourg, with stops in the harbour towns of Barfleur and St Vaast la Hougue, and starting with a visit to a lighthouse, which we stood and looked at because there was no time to go up it (and anyway I doubt few people on my coach would have been able to climb the 350 steps to the top). It was a really pointless exercise.

Our guide was Nicole, who was the mistress of no information (which I suppose was better than another journo's excursion with a guide who was the master of mis-information, and this about the Second World War).

In fact the most interesting thing I discovered was that the British so annihilated the French military fleet at St Vaast la Hougue in 1693 that the French never really recovered their sea power. Nicole's observation, not mine.

Getting back on the ship, I noticed we were moored right next door to La Cite de la Mer, which I have visited previously and thoroughly recommend if you are ever passing this way. It's an aquarium, and a very good one, but the highlight is being able to go aboard the Redoutable, a submarine now open to the public.

A truly unforgettable experience, the brochure says. How right. I will never forget how claustrophobic it felt. The sleeping areas make cruise ship bathrooms look like pure luxury. And sailors live in this confined area under the sea. Scary. And just a little humbling as well.

This morning we are anchored off St Peter Port in Guernsey. The announcement came at 7am (ridiculously early) to say we could now go ashore, along with the long instruction of how you have to get a tender ticket and wait to be called. Blah, blah.

At 8am there was another announcement, saying this really was the best time to go as there are absolutely no queues but it will be really busy at 9am. We've just had the 9am one and guess what? It's still the best time to go.

I hope they get some takers as we've bothered to come all the way here.

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Jane Archer
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