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Madeira: Funchal bar and restaurant tips

July 4, 2008

Armazem do Sal

Literally, 'salt warehouse' - that's what this 200 year old building was. It's on the edge of the old town, reached down a small alley that turns into an attractive decked area with a few tables. There was a chap with a guitar sounding rather like Seu Jorge when I ate there. 

Armazem do SalInside it's all bare stone and exposed beams. A distressed steel panel forms the front of the bar which runs down one side of the room.

As for the food, Armazem do Sal's tuna carpaccio made want to cry. Grilled pork and a chocolate pudding were excellent, but I was still reeling from the starter. It's modern Mediterranean-via-Spain fare, so no big surprises no the menu but all executed beautifully.

AdS is very popular with locals, but it's an upmarket restaurant, so expect upmarket prices.

Riso

The 'risottoria del mundo' is devoted to rice with monomaniacal intensity. Even the salads come with little puffed grains flavoured with cumin (which is slightly unfortunate, as the latter had an unpleasant stale texture). 

Riso, Funchal, PortugalThere's a trendy, minimal space indoors, and a terrace overlooking the Atlantic and the local lido. Expect imaginative variations on the risotto, and some Portugese rice dishes

I had octopus with spring green 'wet rice' - the octopus was great, but the rice wasn't terribly exciting. Other diners had proper risottos, which went down universally well.

The price point is lower than Armazem do Sal, but again this won't be a cheap meal.

Cafe do Teatro

A modish bar with a terrace out front and large outdoor space to the side.  

Cafe do Teatro, Funchal, MadeiraDJs play in the evening, and although there were door police in evidence we walked straight in despite not being remotely cool (see mugshot at top right).

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