Florida: Watery sunset

(26 May 2005)

In spite of what the theme park marketing machines tell us, there is more to Florida than Mickey Mouse and queuing for rides. Far from the madding crowds that clog Orlando’s infamous attractions is a water world that’s teeming with wildlife – both above and below the surface.

The Great Calusa Blueway, in Lee County, is a fine example. Divided into two sections that weave their way for 75 miles through the estuaries that run alongside the Gulf of Mexico, the Blueway first opened in 2003, with the final phase due for its official inauguration this summer.

The area is at a point where several major rivers converge, making the water extremely fertile. So much so that locals call it the ‘cradle of the ocean’.

As I took to the water in a kayak in the late afternoon sunshine, I could hear the swoop and splash of pelicans landing a few feet way. Their beady eyes and elongated beaks seemed to welcome me with a strange, feline smile. A few feet further along I could see clumps of oysters at the water’s edge, bordered by mangrove trees which added a sense of tropical beauty.

While there are seemingly endless avenues and inlets to explore, finding your way is easy, thanks to a clever Global Positioning Satellite system employed en route. In order to use the system you need to take a GPS handset with you (a bit like a large mobile phone); satellites then use receivers on route to locate your position on the map, which you can see on your handset. Easy. The only snag is that you have to supply your own handset, which costs around £80.

If your clients prefer a more natural experience they could always hire a human guide, who will point out marine life along the way. I went out with Connie, who runs GAEA Guides. As well as being a qualified naturalist, she will also supply your kayak and offer basic instructions on paddling for those who’ve never done it before. First-time clients will have no problems picking it up; it is an extremely accessible sport with kayakers paddling on water that’s as smooth as clingfilm. For those who’d rather go it alone, there are plenty of outfitters which rent kayaks for the day.

My first session with Connie began in the glow of the early evening. As we paddled away from Big Hickory Pass into Estero Bay the sun dipped below the horizon, turning the sky the colour of strawberry milkshake. Out here, the only sounds are the splosh of paddle on water, the ubiquitous pelican landing nearby and the odd motorboat ambling past. Bliss.

Aside from this sunset trip, Connie offers various other tours including a moonlit option and an outing to find the elusive manatees. These obscure mammals, also known as sea cows, are extremely rare; there are only about 250 in the whole state, so to see one in the flesh is a real privilege. With their strange snouts, 12ft-long grey bodies and a big flipper at the end of their tail, they look like a cross between a flabby dog and a seal. In times gone by, sailors were said to have mistaken them for mermaids, as they poked their heads above the surface to breathe.

Right at the end of my final excursion with Connie, I was lucky enough to see three sea cows only a metre from my kayak. This in addition to the pod of dolphins, leopard rays and leaping mullet we’d spotted earlier. Not bad for a first-timer.

Back on solid ground, Florida has been busy refurbishing in the wake of the hurricanes which battered the state last summer. Although it seemed like a disaster for the region’s tourism infrastructure at the time, the storm clouds appear to have had a silver lining, as many hotels have subsequently undergone extensive renovations.

Close to the Blueway, the South Seas Resort and Yacht Harbour on Captiva Island has received a $140million upgrade, while the Sanibel Harbour Resort and Spa now has redesigned guestrooms and public spaces.

Perhaps the most notable addition to the Floridian skyline, however, is the new airport terminal outside Fort Myers, due to open on July 20. With 28 aircraft gates and the ability to handle 10 million passengers a year, the airport’s owners are now looking to attract direct scheduled flights from the UK.

It’s a welcome prospect for anyone wanting to see ‘the real Florida’. An eight-hour, 30-minute flight could put clients within reach of the state’s most pristine wilderness, without a four-hour transfer from Orlando.

Now that’s an attraction I wouldn’t mind queuing for.