Search:  Travel Weekly   Travel Industry
Log on / Register

Features

Greece: Hellenic haven

(30 September 2004)

It’s hard to imagine an atmosphere more removed from the boisterous nightlife of Faliraki, but Rhodes Old Town is only 10 miles from the tacky party resort.

TravelWeekly.co.uk  
Picture: Image Bank


Walking through the narrow, winding cobblestone alleyways late one night, after most of the restaurants and shops had closed for the evening, I felt like I’d been transported back to a time before pub crawls had even been invented.

No longer was I a modern-day tourist in flip-flops – instead I’d become a 14th century voyager visiting at the time of the Knights of St John. These Christian soldiers landed in Rhodes at the time of the Crusades and oversaw the construction of this remarkable citadel.

Today, Rhodes Old Town is widely regarded as the oldest permanently-inhabited medieval town in the world, but it’s away from the hustle and bustle of the souvenir shops selling sponges, leather goods and handbags that visitors can experience the magic of this enchanting part of town.

My advice is to step off the beaten track and get lost in the town’s inner sanctum. It is here that you notice the town’s intricate detail: the flying buttresses hanging overhead and the small courtyards and doorways leading into yet smaller courtyards and doorways.

But despite the town’s maze-like nature, visitors always seem to end up at the imposing outer wall where they can regain a sense of direction.

Agents selling Greece should do their research on Rhodes Old Town, as it has been undersold as a major historical attraction. It may not have the atmosphere of the medina in Fes, the old capital of Morocco, or the spiritual presence of Jerusalem, but this little-known gem of the Dodecanese islands is enough in itself to make a holiday to Greece memorable.

A visit to the Old Town was the highlight of a three-day trip to Rhodes I took in early September. Assured by the tourist office that there is more to the island than the much-publicised Faliraki experience, I set out to discover the other side of Rhodes. Twenty miles along the west coast, I came upon another piece of ancient history.

The ruins at Kamiros are the remains of what was the principal city on the island in the 6th century BC, famous for its wine, figs and olives. Exploring excavated walls in the heat may not be everyone’s idea of good fun but a short stroll to the vantage point, which offers a great perspective on how the city must have once looked in its pomp, is well worth the effort and the six euro entry fee.

Driving around Rhodes, clients will see many beaches from the road. My favourite was the wide and sandy Tsambika beach, 12 miles south of Faliraki. At the bottom of a winding road, it is overlooked by the Monmi Panagias Tsambika monastery, perched on an overhanging cliff.

Keen walkers can climb the mile-long track to the monastery for a great view from the summit. Childless women are said to make the journey on their knees every September, in order to pray for a baby when they reach the top.

In need of neither a child or the exercise, I stationed myself at one of the beachside tavernas and ordered a superb late lunch of grilled fish – fresh, tasty and only 12 euros with wine.

The waterside haven of Lindos, 25 miles south of Rhodes Town, is a popular stop-off for tourists who come for the beach, souvenir shops and restaurants. Parts of the film Shirley Valentine were shot in this picture-postcard village of dazzling white 17th century houses and cobbled alleyways, leading down to a perfect semi-circular bay.

So charming is the village that ex-Pink Floyd lead singer Roger Walters is rumoured to have bought a property there. As I sat down that night and marvelled at the sunset from one of the many rooftop restaurants, I was too busy enjoying another excellent meal to even notice the dark side of the moon.